Friday, August 2, 2019

On A Mission To See The Mission

If you've been through California, you have probably heard about the missionaries who came up from Mexico.   In 1692 when the southern area was part of New Spain, Jesuit missionary Eusebio Francisco Kino came to this valley and began the foundation of a church.  A second settlement was founded by "A" Mountain, several miles downstream along the Santa Cruz river.  That eventually came to be known as Tucson.
When Father Kino passed away in 1711, Father Espinosa came north and completed the first mission.  In 1767 the Jesuits were expelled from New Spain and the Spanish Franciscans took over the mission.  By 1797, this mission had been built.  In 1821 when Mexico gained independence, it became part of the state of Sonora and the Spanish Franciscans left. 

With the Gadsden Purchase in 1854, the mission became part of the United States.  The Santa Fe diocese took over and began repairs to save the amazing architecture, but in 1887 a large earthquake damaged many of the buildings.
By 1913, the Franciscans returned to the mission, just in time to see the tower struck by lightning.  Major repairs had to be completed to save this historical monument.
It has been a work in progress ever since when it was discovered water was eroding the foundation and the west wall.  If you are ever in the southern Arizona area, this is a MUST SEE.
Lucky for me, on this day because of the rain, there was no one here.  When you walk inside, it takes your breath away.  Little is known about the people who decorated the interior.  
It is assumed they were commissioned in Mexico.  They do know statues were created in workshops and carried by donkey to this location.  Once the figures were in place, they created gessoed clothing which was then painted.  
There are many references to the Franciscan cord both inside and out.  It represents a knotted cord in recognition of the ropes that bound Jesus.  The shell designs seen throughout are a symbol of pilgrimage after the Patron Saint of Spain, Santiago.
Look closely at the Baroque architecture and you will see curtains and tassels like theatre curtains.  
The paintings that cover every wall, ceiling and grotto are just amazing, and no one really knows who did the work.  You could easily spend a couple of hours here and still not see everything.  
The Mission is open every day and Mass is held at specific times.  No cameras are allowed during Mass or at any other event that may be going on.  A couple of years ago I watched a wedding take place here.  

The entire time I was there, I had a buddy following me around.  Yes, all animals are allowed inside the church.  They usually hang out around noon looking for handouts.  This guy wanted to be first to the table.  Next time I'll bring some treats.
This is the chapel you see on the far left in the old image above.  Everything still exists as you see it there.  
Ongoing restoration continues every day.  Inside the courtyard are beautiful cactus gardens, all accessible to everyone.  In times past, they replastered walls with cement plaster, which was a bad idea with good intentions.  The same happened to the lighthouses in Oregon.  Cement traps water inside, eroding the adobe.  Little by little, they have been removing it and plastering with traditional lime plaster.  You can see the adobe bricks in the wall here.
When the rain finally stopped, I was able to gather a few more images from outside.  
All of the land around the church belongs to the Tohono O'odham people.  Every day at noon they bring their food and supplies to cook lunch for you under these shade covers.  I was a little too early on this day, but the food is delicious and runs maybe $7 for a huge plate full.  If you can't eat it all, the puppies will volunteer to help.
On this day one entire alcove was completely covered with scaffolding.  When I asked about it, one of the shop girls said they were actually just dusting and cleaning the walls.  Restoration is ongoing with the help of your donations.  Be sure and pay the minimal fee to check out the little museum, then maybe drop a few bucks in the gift shop.  They can use all the help they can get.





4 comments:

  1. That is one amazing place to visit, we were there a year a half ago, enjoyed all of the wonderful architecture , the buildings and even had some lunch there the indians were making. Made our donations as well. Apparently the right hand tower either lost its top dome or was never completed, I can't remember which it was. I am sure you know. Thanks for taking us back there again.

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    1. The right hand tower is the one hit by lightning. It's magnificent to say the least.

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  2. That mission is amazing, we visited it two years ago. It was great to see a mission, as we have only heard and seen about them in movies and books. We left our donations and spent a few dollars in the gift shop.

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    1. It's pretty amazing that it is still standing after all these years of monsoon rain. Adobe usually just disappears into the desert.

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