Searching For Fort Bowie

 This was my true destination as I wandered around through the desert.  Built in 1862 by California Volunteers, it was more of a temporary camp to help fight off the Apaches and Chiricahua Indians.  No surprise there, the Indians did not want people on their land, using up their resources of food.  As for the Apache, it was normal for them to attack any establishment that had food and supplies that would sustain them.

By 1868 a more substantial fort had been built which even included a hospital.  After Geronimo surrendered in 1886, there wasn't much use for the fort, which was completely abandoned in 1894.  

As the sign says, it's an 8 mile drive from the paved road to the parking lot and another 1.5 miles to walk.  I thought twice about that walk since it was getting late in the day and I was wearing Levis in the heat.  I turned off on the gravel road.

Let me just say, I'm used to dirt roads.  But THIS dirt road was beyond my expectations.  There's nothing to see for miles around except one or two far far away ranch houses.  About that time I hit the first washboard section.

Good grief this is REALLY bad.  Having aired up my tires for pulling heavy weight didn't help one bit.  I slowed to 10 mph.  It got worse.  I slowed to 5 mph.  I tried every section of that road from left to right and could not get even 50 feet without jarring my teeth.  

I actually made it two miles in 25 minutes before I called UNCLE.  Now if I was in my Jeep, with a much softer suspension, I probably would have continued.  I think I put two years on my truck in that two miles.  

By the time I made it to the parking lot it would have been 3:00 and very hot.

I sadly turned around and drove back, hugged up tight against the fence so it would be at least a tad bit better ... not quite as bone shaking.  

What to do now?  By looking at my little map, there was a big loop around the valley.  I'll go that way.  Almost immediately I spotted this huge stand of trees.  These don't grow in the desert, so someone must have planted them.  The second I saw the headstones, I slammed on the brakes and backed up, to the scowl of a guy across the road coming through a locked gate.

As I crossed the cattle guard, I spotted the deer.  I stopped quickly and turned the engine off.  They were very spooky.  Two jumped the fence into the cemetery while the rest wandered around the back side.  That was pretty amazing to see all these deer in the middle of nowhere.  

This is the Riggs Family Cemetery.  Apparently big cattle ranchers back in the day, and maybe still going strong.  Truly, it's a big cemetery and completely full of headstones.

The one on the right is Ida Lilly Riggs, born in Waverly Missouri in 1852.  I bet the history on this family would be an interesting read.  One of the headstones was for a 19 year old boy.  The stories they could tell.

As I drove along, praying I was really on the road I was looking at on the map ... because you drive for miles and miles seeing absolutely nothing .... I finally landed at the Chiricahua National Monument.  NOT my destination.  I was not surprised that the first first thing I saw was another cemetery.

This is a terrible picture, but I couldn't get it any better due to the harsh shadows.  I'm heading into Bonita Canyon, which is where this picture was taken of the Erickson Family on a picnic in the early 1800's.  Not shown in this picture is Lillian Erickson who married a Riggs and is buried in the cemetery above.

These immigrants from Sweden established a homestead here known as the Faraway Ranch.  Lillian was first to be born at Fort Bowie.  Eventually all the family members left and Lillian became the Lady of the Ranch.  She operated a guest ranch here for years before it became a National Monument.  All the members of this family are buried here except Lillian.

 I headed on up the hill as the road narrowed and bypassed the Visitor Center.  Too many people there for me.  The road narrowed considerably with no place to turn around.  Pretty soon I felt like I was hanging on to a cliff with my teeth while trying not to hit the rocks on the right hand side.  

Now THIS is an adventure.  The Chiricahua National Monument is tomorrow's story.