Sunday, March 6, 2022

Soldiers Hole

 You can see why the native Indians camped out in the Chiricahua Mountains.  This country is absolutely gorgeous.  Yes it's dry, situated next to large areas of desert, and probably hot as a tin roof in the summer, but the scenery is beautiful.  That white stuff on the mountain top is actually snow from a couple days ago.

Sadly, it's now all private property and you are not allowed to go exploring up the mountainside.  


As I came out of the canyon where Johnny Ringo was shot and killed, I turned towards the Mexican border and Sulphur Springs Valley.  Although I've never run into anyone illegally entering the U.S. (maybe once when hiking), you do have to be watchful.  Squash that feeling of being helpful to the lady on the side of the road and just keep driving.

You will soon arrive at Soldiers Hole on Gleeson Road, about 25 miles from the border.  One of the first ranchers in this area was William Sanderson who was camping out with his family near a small water hole he found, while on his way to Tombstone.  

A cowboy passing through the area told him to stay put since there was a smallpox outbreak in Tombstone.  Sanderson told his wife Katherine to let her chickens out ... we're staying here.  As you know, water meant everything!

According to his daughter, raiding parties of Old Geronimo came by many times stealing cattle and anything they thought useful, but they never bothered the family.  Sadly, it brought the calvary out between 1861 and 1863, with troops on maneuvers camping out here by the water.  

This soon became a stop on the Butterfield Stage Route due to the artesian well Sanderson and Ambrose Lyall struck in 1883.  The Federal Government at the time awarded Sanderson $1,000, I assume for allowing them to use the water.  


Soldiers and Indians weren't the only visitors.  Apparently the Clantons, McLaurys, Earps, Sheriff Behan and even Johnny Ringo stopped in here often.  In 1892 a twelve battery stamp mill was built, along with a Post Office given the name of Descanso, meaning a haven of rest.  They also built a school, which was eventually used by the Mormon settlers for their first church.  The Sulphur Springs Valley became quite popular.

In 1909 the railroad came into being and bypassed Soldiers Hole.  Descanso disappeared and sadly, nothing remains.  It is currently private property on which grain is grown.  The only thing left to see is the monument, built with rocks from the stamp mill.  That's it ... all I could find on Soldiers Hole.  

So I continued on my journey towards Tombstone.  See the line of grey trees?  Sorry they don't show up as well as they did in person.  That's the creek bed.  Usually green, they have lost their leaves, but if you see a line of trees like that, you know there's water at least part of the year.


As I drive along, I'm always thinking about riding a horse across the trails between towns.  It must have been nice to see some sort of civilization ahead.  I mean really, did the Earps carry food?  When they camped out, did they eat?  I assume they took a canteen of water with them when searching for Curly Bill Brocius.  Generally you can make 25-35 miles a day on a horse, which is probably why you see these little towns and stagecoach stops about that far apart.

This is coming into Tombstone from the East.  I had visions of a huge Big Nose Kate's sandwich and a little shopping foray.  Boy was I surprised to see SO MANY cars parked in town.  The streets were full of people and the parking lots (usually empty) full to the brim.  I quickly had second thoughts about stopping.


I was truly happy to see them thriving, but waiting an hour for food wouldn't fit into my schedule, not to mention I probably wouldn't find a parking spot.  I've never seen it like that before and it was only Friday!!!

I kept driving.  I'll go back mid week.  In the meantime, I took the back road to Sierra Vista, stopping in at a little local artist art gallery.  Sorry, no pictures allowed.  By then I was on a mission to get home, so off I went, following traffic going 25 mph in a 45 zone.  

I saw the sign too late and no one would let me over.  It's okay, I'll go straight and turn around.  Wasn't I surprised that going straight led me right to the entrance gate of Fort Huachuca.  I wish I had GPS in my truck.  It might have saved me from a frantic turn-around mid-street.

Six hours of driving later, I was back home, greeted by a very happy little puppy having a bad hair day, just like his Mama.  It's true we end up looking just like our pets!


I'm not sure what trip is up next ... I'll have to check my bank account for gas money!!


12 comments:

  1. Great pictures, even better story! I guess it's good Tombstone is busy this time of year. It seems when people have talked about going there it's been empty most times. Cooper is a cutie!

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    1. Since they get so few people in the summer, I'm happy to see them going like gangbusters now!!

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  2. Love the history of this part of Arizona. The Butterfield Stage Route went through NW Arkansas on its way to St. Louis, although another fork of the trail went through the middle of Arkansas to Madison Arkansas. My understanding is that they are trying to make the entire 3,000 mile route(s) a National Historic Trail.

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    1. Wow ... that would be cool! The thought of making that trip in a bumpy dusty stagecoach makes me cringe.

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  3. Thanks for the day trip. I must say Cooper does resemble you with that curly hair. I just hate private propery in the middle of nowhere 😖

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    1. The entire valley is private property ... all farmers so I can't complain too much I suppose. Sure would like to investigate the area though.

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  4. Another interesting western tale. Thank you. I can see you on horseback doing the same thing. 😊
    Cooper is adorable, bad hair day or not!!

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    1. Oh yeah ... if I could, I'd be riding that country for sure.

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  5. You should have told us all this background info when we were touring the area but I'm glad we did see all those places. Knew exactly where you went and what it looked like. Wouldn't mind going back and seeing it all again.

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    1. In spite of its desert appearance, it certainly is beautiful country. If you come back, I'll give you some scenic tips!!

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  6. Cooper.....that's how I look in the morning! But it's cute on you sweet baby. We went to Tombstone, probably March 2021. I don't remember the day of the week. But we had to park down below and walk up that steep hill. There was a wait at Big Nose Kate's. We had to put our name on a list. And this was right in the middle of Covid! Maybe some schools were on Spring break. Elva

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    1. When word got out Tombstone wasn't doing the mask thing, lots of people went there. If you don't get to Big Nose Kates by 11:30, you will have a long wait. GREAT place to eat!

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